July 29 - I was introduced to the music of John Hurt by a wonderful guitar teacher named Terry who I studied with between the ages of thirteen to sixteen. He taught me the technique variously known as ‘double thumbing,’ ‘Travis picking,’ or ‘alternating bass,’ and the main lick for “Spike Driver Blues.” I was then able to figure out a number of songs from Hurt’s definitive Today album. When we decided to make the trip down to Memphis, I knew we would visit Avalon, Hurt’s hometown, immortalized in his song, “Avalon Blues.”
I was surprised to find out that there was an actual Mississippi John Hurt Museum in Avalon, which is more or less a ghost town now, about seventy miles southeast of Clarksdale, MS. If you’re thinking about visiting, make sure to view the local map on a regular computer as it is more detailed than the mobile version. Allow ample time to visit other landmarks in the area. I was sorry that we weren’t able to visit John’s grave, which is nearby. We saw a poster at the Shackupinn alerting us to the fact that you have to make an appointment with the museum’s caretaker, Floyd Bailey, to go inside.
We met Floyd by the historical marker on Route 7, and followed him through twisting back roads to get to the museum. The first stop was the abandoned Valley Store (pictured above), where Hurt would play on weekend nights. Eventually, we came upon the museum, which was established by Hurt’s granddaughter.
Floyd opens the door to the museum while Chris and Maria brazenly flout the 'No Picture Taking' sign...
The museum itself is housed in John’s shotgun shack. It was blazing hot and we didn’t have much time, as Floyd had work to do at a church that they are planning to move onto the property. There are a lot of old guitars that Hurt may or may not have played, and pictures of longtime caretaker, Art Browning. Cans of Maxwell House coffee and an old stove are among the basic staples of home that must have characterized much of Hurt’s life, save for his music and poetic vision. The grounds are beautiful and serene.
There are also numerous framed press clippings, and these are very interesting. No photos may be taken inside the museum, which was a little hard to understand, but as a musicologist, it dawns on me now that photos of the press clippings would be quite useful to someone thinking of writing that long overdue biography of John Hurt. It is one of these clippings that provides me with the most evocative memory of our visit.
A murder had taken place in the area, and detectives had descended on the crime scene under full darkness. As they were getting ready to leave, a voice spoke up from the shadows, telling them, ‘you’re going the wrong way – you don’t want to get lost around here – let me show you.’ And with a flashlight, John Hurt led the detectives back to their cars.
Visiting Avalon and the museum rekindled my interest in John’s songs. I never stopped playing them at least occasionally – see my “Mississippi Medley” – but for the first time, I began to try to sing them.
Superb story about a truly underappreciated blues guitar legend. Glad you were able to get a few photos of these rarely seen but historically significant locations. Thinking of MJH walking into these places after or before playing one of his acoustic guitars is to be transported to a place and time in the isolation of the woods of Mississippi when blues guitar magic humbly happened and disappeared into the ether, heard only by MJH and anyone who was fortunate to be around to hear. Anyone who hasn't listened to MHJ's recordings really should so they can enjoy his gentle yet intricate playing combined with his sweet voice and often mischievous lyrics. A true natural genius.
Posted by: Chris | 08/26/2015 at 11:04 AM
Your take on John Hurt is right on, and you describe it beautifully. It stirs the imagination. Everyone should take a listen to his music if they haven't already. For now, I can't add anything else. But I will certainly return to John's life and music in the future here. Thanks for writing.
Posted by: On Practicing Guitar | 08/28/2015 at 09:31 PM
Thank you for sharing your experience! I recommend Phillip Ratcliffe's terrific recent biography of MJH. http://www.upress.state.ms.us/books/1379
I visited the house a couple of years ago and picked on the porch for a bit: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=AlDg6Y1hlp0
The house was riginally located near the Valley Store until MJH's granddaughter moved it to the current location on her land. Mr. Bailey also took me to the grave site as well, which is a lovely, peaceful spot.
Posted by: Brian | 07/25/2017 at 04:35 PM
Thanks, Brian! I will definitely look for that bio. It looks like an academic publisher - I think I read a great book on Earl Hooker out of U of Miss Press. I will take a look at your video. We were there for too short of a time. I wanted to visit the grave and the church as well. It was in the middle of summer - end of July early August and about 95 degrees. I really want to return. It's nice to meet a big time John Hurt fan! Thanks again,
Chris
Posted by: On Practicing Guitar | 07/25/2017 at 08:40 PM
Your story remarkably resembles my own. My brother and I were driving to Clarksdale and when I saw the small white sign marked "Avalon" There was no way that I couldn't let the opportunity get away. Floyd was great! For me the experience was almost spiritual. The man's character was so woven into his style that it seemed that to hear him perform was to know him. He has been a musical influence for almost 50 years now. Don't tell anyone but my brother got off a couple of snapshots of me playing my guitar in the museum. "Staggerlee" I believe it was. Prized possessions they are.
Posted by: William Metts | 07/28/2017 at 06:31 PM
Thank you so much, William for your comment. I was a little taken aback by the 'no pictures' policy. I really didn't understand it. It would seem that the trove of John Hurt memorabilia, personal effects etc would be a great starting point for scholars or just fans who might be interested in promoting or discovering this great artist. I hope to get back there one day. I didn't bring my acoustic guitar (brought my electric to Memphis and jammed at the Rum Boogie) but it's great that you got to play some at John's house/museum. Thanks again for stopping by. -Chris
Posted by: On Practicing Guitar | 07/28/2017 at 07:15 PM
Can anyone tell me how I can contact the curator of the MJH museum to arrange a visit?
Posted by: Fred Kingdom | 01/20/2020 at 04:19 PM
Fred,
Sorry for the late reply. I looked online at the museum's website and didn't see much info, as you must have, as well. I suggest contacting the Shack Up Inn, which is located in Clarksdale. That's how I got the info that led me to the caretaker, Floyd. Believe me, it was just a piece of paper stuck up on the wall, probably hand-written with the phone number and basic info. I only saw it by chance. OK, maybe it was printed and on a bulletin board I don't remember it that way. There are many fans that make the pilgrimage and you've probably found your way by now. Let me know how it goes.
Chris
Posted by: On Practicing Guitar | 03/28/2020 at 10:05 AM
Went to the
Miss John Hirt Homecoming in 2018 . Love the music!Only 6 performers.Anout 25 people in crowd. I talked to her s daughter. At his house. I autographed the living room wall, as hundreds are f other fans have. Saw it he valley store. Glad I went.
Posted by: Phillip R Brown | 07/28/2021 at 10:06 AM
Thanks for writing Phillip! I would love to go back there. -Chris
Posted by: On Practicing Guitar | 08/04/2021 at 09:32 PM
We tried to visit Avalon recently... March 5, 2022. When you turn off Highway 7 you are greeted immediately with a half-open fence across the road and a Private Property, Keep Out sign. There where two other cars that turned and left as we arrived. Anyone know if Avalon is now unvisitable without a local guide? Quite disappointing!
Posted by: Steve | 03/08/2022 at 08:45 AM
Sorry to hear that, Steve! The only information that I could find at the time was on a bulletin board at the Shack Up Inn right outside Clarksdale. I would try giving them a call if I was down there and couldn't find any other info. -Chris
Posted by: On Practicing Guitar | 03/08/2022 at 08:56 AM
Not sure if Steve (above) will see this but I think he turned the wrong way off Highway 7. The MJH marker in the first photo is west of Hwy 7 near a gated private road but his actual grave and the rest of Avalon is to the east off of Country Road 41. We were there in Oct. 2021 and all the roads were open...missed the museum, though!
Thanks for the great Blues posts, btw!
Posted by: Blaine | 04/27/2023 at 09:57 PM
Thanks for writing, Blaine! It's amazing how you can miss some of these important John Hurt landmarks and they're all within a few miles of each other. We saw the museum and the grocery store, but missed the cemetery. I don't know if I would have even been able to find those without the help of Floyd. And we found his number at the Shack Up Inn. So, things can be a little iffy. I think many MJH Pilgrims return again and again, and that's how they know the way. Either way, you definitely need to prepare with whatever maps, contacts, or otherwise that you can find. Thanks for the kind words on my blues posts! I'm glad that people are enjoying and hopefully benefiting from them! -Chris
Posted by: On Practicing Guitar | 04/29/2023 at 10:23 AM